On our way back from Florence we decided, after much debate, to visit the LTP. The best time to visit the Tower is on a rainy day in November. Lines were short indeed.
Construction on the tower began almost 900 years ago. The LTP was intended to be the bell tower for the cathedral at Pisa, but it was not the will of Allah.
The architect knew little of limestone or clay. He packed mud that shifted and gave when wet. As the tower went up for a mere 100 ft and began to lean, the architect hoped at first that nobody would notice. Hopefully construction would be completed and checks cashed before questions were asked. The identity of the architect is not publicly known, nor are we certain where he hid. I have my suspicions: I believe the name was Hulot and he escaped to France where his influence continues to be widely felt.
After three hundred years the lean was 5 degrees. Galileo measured g but he was unaware of the gravity of the situation. A total collapse was imminent and Pisa’s CAC (Committee Against Collapse) was formed. Attempts to decrease the lean by counterbalancing the tower, pumping concrete into its foundations and similar measures only served to increase the lean.
The best architects in the world were consulted. As in all bar jokes, discussions were multinational. The Japanese suggested pulling down the tower and rebuilding from scratch, the Chinese thought that a second tower should offer support in an inverted V for Victory design. The Russian solution was more complex: Remove the lowest part of the tower where the lean originated. The French? Well, they had to deal with other projects such as the pont d’Avignon immortalized in song. To be continued in the Hulot chronicles.
In 1990, the LTP closed for 12 years while its foundation was reinforced to restore the lean from 5.5 degrees to a more stable 5.0 degrees. To my eye, the lean at first glance appeared even greater; I estimated 10 degrees.
Walking up the steps is an unusual experience where the ears are aware of the tilt and the steps are worn smooth on one side of the spiral compounding the disorientation. Leaving the tower feels much like disembarking from a boat, one totters on level ground before regaining balance and composure. This could be a Buddhist metaphor, what is real and what is illusion and how easily do we buy into illusion and mistake it for reality.
To extend the metaphor, there are some terribly original tourists who will take pictures of themselves standing in line with the tower to prop it up or appear to. Do they feel better for their efforts? Does it add to good karma or is that also virtual?
Pisa has its share of vendors: Umbrellas with art work inspired by the Uffizi, watches with familiar brand names such as Rolex, a great deal at 20 euros, T shirts immortalizing Da Vinci’s man with Homer Simpson at the center. More impressive were LTPs in plastic with an electric light within. I bought one of these to sit on the mantelpiece beside my plastic Taj Mahal, which also doubles as a lamp.
Construction on the tower began almost 900 years ago. The LTP was intended to be the bell tower for the cathedral at Pisa, but it was not the will of Allah.
The architect knew little of limestone or clay. He packed mud that shifted and gave when wet. As the tower went up for a mere 100 ft and began to lean, the architect hoped at first that nobody would notice. Hopefully construction would be completed and checks cashed before questions were asked. The identity of the architect is not publicly known, nor are we certain where he hid. I have my suspicions: I believe the name was Hulot and he escaped to France where his influence continues to be widely felt.
After three hundred years the lean was 5 degrees. Galileo measured g but he was unaware of the gravity of the situation. A total collapse was imminent and Pisa’s CAC (Committee Against Collapse) was formed. Attempts to decrease the lean by counterbalancing the tower, pumping concrete into its foundations and similar measures only served to increase the lean.
The best architects in the world were consulted. As in all bar jokes, discussions were multinational. The Japanese suggested pulling down the tower and rebuilding from scratch, the Chinese thought that a second tower should offer support in an inverted V for Victory design. The Russian solution was more complex: Remove the lowest part of the tower where the lean originated. The French? Well, they had to deal with other projects such as the pont d’Avignon immortalized in song. To be continued in the Hulot chronicles.
In 1990, the LTP closed for 12 years while its foundation was reinforced to restore the lean from 5.5 degrees to a more stable 5.0 degrees. To my eye, the lean at first glance appeared even greater; I estimated 10 degrees.
Walking up the steps is an unusual experience where the ears are aware of the tilt and the steps are worn smooth on one side of the spiral compounding the disorientation. Leaving the tower feels much like disembarking from a boat, one totters on level ground before regaining balance and composure. This could be a Buddhist metaphor, what is real and what is illusion and how easily do we buy into illusion and mistake it for reality.
To extend the metaphor, there are some terribly original tourists who will take pictures of themselves standing in line with the tower to prop it up or appear to. Do they feel better for their efforts? Does it add to good karma or is that also virtual?
Pisa has its share of vendors: Umbrellas with art work inspired by the Uffizi, watches with familiar brand names such as Rolex, a great deal at 20 euros, T shirts immortalizing Da Vinci’s man with Homer Simpson at the center. More impressive were LTPs in plastic with an electric light within. I bought one of these to sit on the mantelpiece beside my plastic Taj Mahal, which also doubles as a lamp.
No comments:
Post a Comment